Breakfast - The Freckled Maid - Llan uwch Llyn - The Landlady -Llewarch Hen - Conversions to the Church.
AWAKING occasionally in the night I heard much storm and rain. The following morning it was gloomy and lowering. As it was Sunday Idetermined to pass the day at Bala, and accordingly took my Prayer Book out of my satchel, and also my single white shirt, which I put on.
Having dressed myself I went to the coffee-room and sat down to breakfast. What a breakfast! - pot of hare; ditto of trout; pot of prepared shrimps; dish of plain shrimps; tin of sardines; beautiful beef-steak; eggs, muffin; large loaf, and butter, not forgetting capital tea. There's a breakfast for you!
As the little freckled maid was removing the breakfast things Iasked her how old she was.
"Eighteen, sir, last Candlemas," said the freckled maid.
"Are your parents alive?"
"My mother is, sir, but my father is dead.""What was your father?"
"He was an Irishman, sir! and boots to this inn.""Is your mother Irish?"
"No, sir, she is of this place; my father married her shortly after he came here.""Of what religion are you?"
"Church, sir, Church."
"Was your father of the Church?"
"Not always, sir; he was once what is called a Catholic. He turned to the Church after he came here.""A'n't there a great many Methodists in Bala?""Plenty, sir, plenty."
"How came your father not to go over to the Methodists instead of the Church?""'Cause he didn't like them, sir; he used to say they were a trumpery, cheating set; that they wouldn't swear, but would lie through a three-inch board.""I suppose your mother is a Church-woman?""She is now, sir; but before she knew my father she was a Methodist.""Of what religion is the master of the house?""Church, sir, Church; so is all the family.""Who is the clergyman of the place?"
"Mr Pugh, sir!"
"Is he a good preacher?"
"Capital, sir! and so is each of his curates; he and they are converting the Methodists left and right.""I should like to hear him."
"Well, sir! that you can do. My master, who is going to church presently, will be happy to accommodate you in his pew."I went to church with the landlord, a tall gentlemanly man of the name of Jones - Oh that eternal name of Jones! Rain was falling fast, and we were glad to hold up our umbrellas. We did not go to the church at Bala, at which there was no service that morning, but to that of a little village close by, on the side of the lake, the living of which is incorporated with that of Bala. The church stands low down by the lake at the bottom of a little nook. Its name which is Llan uwch Llyn, is descriptive of its position, signifying the Church above the Lake. It is a long, low, ancient edifice, standing north-east by south-west. The village is just above it on a rising ground, behind which are lofty hills pleasantly dotted with groves, trees, and houses. The interior of the edifice has a somewhat dilapidated appearance. The service was in Welsh. The clergyman was about forty years of age, and had a highly-intelligent look. His voice was remarkably clear and distinct. He preached an excellent practical sermon, text, 14th chapter, 22nd verse of Luke, about sending out servants to invite people to the supper. After the sermon there was a gathering for the poor.
As I returned to the inn I had a good deal of conversation with the landlord on religious subjects. He told me that the Church of England, which for a long time had been a down-trodden Church in Wales, had of late begun to raise its head, and chiefly owing to the zeal and activity of its present ministers; that the former ministers of the Church were good men, but had not energy enough to suit the times in which they lived; that the present ministers fought the Methodist preachers with their own weapons, namely, extemporary preaching, and beat them, winning shoals from their congregations. He seemed to think that the time was not far distant when the Anglican Church would be the popular as well as the established Church of Wales.
Finding myself rather dull in the inn, I went out again, notwithstanding that it rained. I ascended the toman or mound which I had visited on a former occasion. Nothing could be more desolate and dreary than the scene around. The woods were stripped of their verdure and the hills were half shrouded in mist. How unlike was this scene to the smiling, glorious prospect which had greeted my eyes a few months before. The rain coming down with redoubled violence, I was soon glad to descend and regain the inn.
Shortly before dinner I was visited by the landlady, a fine tall woman of about fifty, with considerable remains of beauty in her countenance. She came to ask me if I was comfortable. I told her that it was my own fault if I was not. We were soon in very friendly discourse. I asked her her maiden name.