The Old Ostler - Directions - Church of England Man - The Deep Dingle - The Two Women - The Cutty Pipe - Waen y Bwlch - The Deaf and Dumb - The Glazed Hat.
I ROSE on the morning of the 2nd of November intending to proceed to the Devil's Bridge, where I proposed halting a day or two, in order that I might have an opportunity of surveying the far-famed scenery of that locality. After paying my bill I went into the yard to my friend the old ostler, to make inquiries with respect to the road.
"What kind of road," said I, "is it to the Devil's Bridge?""There are two roads, sir, to the Pont y Gwr Drwg; which do you mean to take?""Why do you call the Devil's Bridge the Pont y Gwr Drwg, or the bridge of the evil man?""That we may not bring a certain gentleman upon us, sir, who doesn't like to have his name taken in vain.""Is their much difference between the roads?""A great deal, sir; one is over the hills, and the other round by the valleys.""Which is the shortest?"
"Oh, that over the hills, sir; it is about twenty miles from here to the Pont y Gwr Drwg over the hills, but more than twice that by the valleys.""Well, I suppose you would advise me to go by the hills?""Certainly, sir - that is, if you wish to break your neck, or to sink in a bog, or to lose your way, or perhaps, if night comes on, to meet the Gwr Drwg himself taking a stroll. But to talk soberly.
The way over the hills is an awful road, and, indeed, for the greater part is no road at all.""Well, I shall go by it. Can't you give me some directions?""I'll do my best, sir, but I tell you again that the road is a horrible one, and very hard to find."He then went with me to the gate of the inn, where he began to give me directions, pointing to the south, and mentioning some names of places through which I must pass, amongst which were Waen y Bwlch and Long Bones. At length he mentioned Pont Erwyd, and said: "If you can but get there, you are all right, for from thence there is a very fair road to the bridge of the evil man; though I dare say if you get to Pont Erwyd - and I wish you may get there - you will have had enough of it and will stay there for the night, more especially as there is a good inn."Leaving Machynlleth, I ascended a steep hill which rises to the south of it. From the top of this hill there is a fine view of the town, the river, and the whole valley of the Dyfi. After stopping for a few minutes to enjoy the prospect I went on. The road at first was exceedingly good, though up and down, and ****** frequent turnings. The scenery was beautiful to a degree: lofty hills were on either side, clothed most luxuriantly with trees of various kinds, but principally oaks. "This is really very pleasant," said I, "but I suppose it is too good to last long." However, I went on for a considerable way, the road neither deteriorating nor the scenery decreasing in beauty. "Surely I can't be in the right road," said I; "I wish I had an opportunity of asking." Presently seeing an old man working with a spade in a field near a gate, Istopped and said in Welsh: "Am I in the road to the Pont y Gwr Drwg?" The old man looked at me for a moment, then shouldering his spade he came up to the gate, and said in English: "In truth, sir, you are.""I was told that the road thither was a very bad one," said I, "but this is quite the contrary.""This road does not go much farther, sir," said he; "it was made to accommodate grand folks who live about here.""You speak very good English," said I; "where did you get it?"He looked pleased, and said that in his youth he had lived some years in England.
"Can you read?" said I.
"Oh yes," said he, "both Welsh and English.""What have you read in Welsh?" said I.
"The Bible and Twm O'r Nant."
"What pieces of Twm O'r Nant have you read?""I have read two of his interludes and his life.""And which do you like best - his life or his interludes?""Oh, I like his life best."
"And what part of his life do you like best?""Oh, I like that part best where he gets the ship into the water at Abermarlais.""You have a good judgment," said I; "his life is better than his interludes, and the best part of his life is where he describes his getting the ship into the water. But do the Methodists about here in general read Twm O'r Nant?""I don't know," said be; "I am no Methodist.""Do you belong to the Church?"
"I do."
"And why do you belong to the Church?"
"Because I believe it is the best religion to get to heaven by.""I am much of your opinion," said I. "Are there many Church people about here?""Not many," said he, "but more than when I was young.""How old are you?"
"Sixty-nine."
"You are not very old," said I.
"An't I? I only want one year of fulfilling my proper time on earth.""You take things very easily," said I.
"Not so very easily, sir; I have often my quakings and fears, but then I read my Bible, say my prayers, and find hope and comfort.""I really am very glad to have seen you," said I; "and now can you tell me the way to the bridge?""Not exactly, sir, for I have never been there; but you must follow this road some way farther, and then bear away to the right along yon hill" - and he pointed to a distant mountain.